Boating on the Canal Du Midi

On a boat on the water is my idea of heaven be it sailing on the sea, travelling on a ferry or a rowing boat on Camargue and the Midi on an adorable Penichette boat.....sort of a cross between a long boat and a fishing boat. It was comfortable and handled very well.

Our Penichette on the Canal du Midi

A few years ago, I had my first experience on the canals in England and totally loved it despite the wet, cold weather. This year, we decided to try a new experience and went to the south of France to spend a glorious week on the Canals of the South of France.

Montpellier

Starting the adventure at the beautiful town of Montpellier, we then picked up our little boat and headed off on the suggested agenda. The canals were just lovely and very varied. The first part took us in the area of the Camargue on the Canal du Rhone de Sete. This is not like any canal I had ever seen with the Mediterranean sea on one side and lakes and rivers on the other side with just a narrow stretch of pathways to separate the three. We had an open stretch of water to cross at the Etang de Thau. There are some towns on the lake and we decided to make a stop in one of them and found a charming gem of a plae in Meze. As much as I loved the first part of the trip, getting to the Midi was just wonderful.....the trees, the villages and towns and the moored boats along the way all added to the beauty and peacefulness of this wonderful Canal. Sadly many of the trees will be lost in the coming years as they are suffering from some sort of disease and will be cut down. We we feel very blessed to have been able to visit and enjoy the canal as it is now....indeed, as it has been for many years.

The Canal du Midi

The Canal du Midi

We learnt early not to take the charts too seriously as they didn't always line up too well with reality. Everything happens so slowly however, we had the time to adapt. adjust and deal with whatever little surprises came our way.  There were times when my meagre French was tested up to and beyond its limits but again, the kindness and patience of people enabled me to stumble my way through both speaking and understanding most things. On the subject of language the thing I loved the most and appreciated the most was that all the locals enabled me to speak in French. They would wait patiently for me to express myself then very often would just check or add the necessary word in English that far surpassed my French. That gave me a lot of confidence to do more throughout the week.

Of course, the food was just delicious. There were some surprises through misinterpretations but on the whole, we got what we wanted and thoroughly enjoyed it. But then this is France we are talking about!

After the lovely easy friendliness of Montpelier, we had set a very high standard for the following towns to match up to. On the whole, they did just that, in their own unique style.

The walled city of Aiges Morte

The main square inside Aiges Morte

Aiges Morte was our first overnight stop after Montepellier. It is a lovely old walled city. Its full of shops and restaurants and full of tourists. The real treat was that, during the late afternoon and evening, the majority of tourists have gone leaving the lovely little town to the visitors on boats or campers. We had a very pleasant evening in the square eating a meal that for me was plain delicious and for Frank something of a surprise especially when we realised that Gésier actually means gizzard...he did lose a little of his appetite at that point.

After a pleasant shopping expedition in the newer part of town the following morning and a shower in a rather disgusting shower block, we headed out.

Villeneuve-ls-Maguelonne was our next stop for lunch and an expedition. We 'parked' then walked across the swinging bridge (one of the surprises that we were not expecting on the canal) and walked down to see a re built ancient Cathedral. The walk was lovely and we got to see and photograph some wild Flamingos. It gave me such a thrill to see these birds in the wild. I had read that they lived in this area but had not really believed that they were common enough to actually SEE them.

And there were lots of them!! 

 The Cathedral and, indeed the whole area was charming. It was set in a large vineyard with a view of the sea, a lovely cafe that looked like a well restored building and, of course, the Cathedral. The Cathedral had been restored by the Faberge family and we wondered if they indeed owned the land, vineyard etc. Inadvertently we took a ride down to the beaches (wrong direction) on some free transport but eventually got back to the boat to continue on our way.We loved it.

A water jousting boat at Frontignan

We became very glad to have spent the time to stop and enjoy the afternoon especially as the overnight stop had only one thing to offer......a swinging bridge that only opened briefly twice a day to let you through! There is very little else to say about Frontignan......it is simply somewhere to pass through! Now this is a little warning. We were so impresssed by one persons positive Blog on Frontignan that we printed it out and took it with us and I for one, was really looking forward to visiting this town. Just goes to show what is one persons treat is another persons poison. We did however get this rather lovely picture of this Water Jousting boat....a local sport.  And we were up early ready and eager to get through the bridge...didn't want to risk another ovenight stay.

The  Etang de Thau is very protected and crossing it in a hired boat is banned in winds over 4 knots. It was not a great morning with threatening clouds but we headed out anyway (there was no way we were going to get stuck in Frontignan for another night) and the crossing itself was just about perfect. There are a number of towns clinging to the edges of the lake and we opted to head for one of them for a lunchtime stop. The restrictions on the lake are due to the fact that this lake is a huge shell fish farm...the biggest in Europe I believe, certainly the biggest in France.

The lovely town of Meze

Meze turned out to be a pretty fishing village with smiling locals, good cafes and interesting shops and streets to explore. We were very tempted to stop overnight but decided that a lunchtime stop would suffice. I met a really jolly and playful lady in the indoor market selling cheese..it did seem to be a very relaxed and happy little place. Liked it a lot!.

So reluctantly we moved on to the other side of the Lake and were then rewarded when we entered the Canal Du Midi. It was a little grubby looking at first with lots of old sunken boats of various shapes and sizes but that very soon metamorphosed into  pure beauty with the elegance of

Welcome to the Midi

Canal du Midi

the trees, the rippling waters and the sun dancing around the foliage and the water in a splendid display of sparkles and shades. At times, we were really quite speechless, just enjoying the peace & beauty of it all.

To get to our overnight stop at the town of Agde, we had to pass through one of the famous Midi round Locks....and it was the biggest lock I have ever seen. I got quite

Entering the round lock at Agde

Maneuvering in the round lock

Finally exiting the Lock

excited (sad really) when I went forward to take a look at the lock and ran back along the canal side telling everyone who would listen that it was just HUGE, REALLY HUGE with all the appropriate hand gestures to demonstrate the fact. Everything went remarkably well going into and out of the lock and then we set off to find our parking space for the night. We were a little too busy while going through the lock to take any photos but we did go back later and managed to get some photos of a rather eccentric French man who we had met earlier maneavouring his 'garden boat' through the lock. It was quite entertaining. We had previously wondered how he could see where he was going with all the foliage on the boat. Watching him perform in the lock, we realised that he probably couldn't really see anything very much at all. His exit was accompanied by a resounding crash as he collided with the side of the lock.

Home for the night at Agde

We stopped on the canal side just outside of town in a lovely tree lined leafy spot. After securing everything, we got the bikes off the boat (first time) and set out for town. The old part of town was OK with its narrow streets and old buildings but it was obviously a place that was meant to have daytime tourists wandering around. It all seemed a little empty and quiet in the early evening. We went to a Trip Adviser recommended Creperie but I found very disappointing. But what was lacking in food was made up for the in the ambiance and the friendliness. I just needed a snack when we got back to the boat!

Our parking spot at Vias

The following day, a couple of hours boating got us to Vias....what a little charmer. Off came the bikes once more and we headed up hill to the little quaint town. Vias is a bustling little place with lots of locals and tourists from boats, campers (w met a couple of people at lunchtime) and bikers. The cafes in the square were all doing a great trade. We stopped for our daily coffee then happily stumbled on the local market which we both always enjoy wandering around. We bought a few things, absorbed the atmosphere, rescued a stolen item from the market stall (taken by a little boy obviously under the tutelage of his mother) and then headed back to the square for a delicious lunch of mussels.

We became very glad of having stopped for lunch as we managed to get lost on the way back to the boat and ended up taking an elongated but rather pretty detour around the countryside.

Sunset from the old bridge in Beziers

The glorious view of Bezier town

Our next stop was far far different from Vias but it turned out to be a true gem to us. Sadly in talking later to others that we met, the gems of the city were not easily or frequently discovered. Beziers is a large town and is at the bottom of a 7 gate staircase of locks so is very busy with people passing through. Once we were secure, we went for an early evening walk to see what the staircase had in store for us. It was somewhat further away than we had thought but nonetheless it was a lovely walk so it was not a problem.

We took a look at the lock then decided to head directly from there into town to find the town of Beziers and get something to eat. Bezier  is a bit like a wedding cake, built in layers. There is the bottom layer, the middle layer and the top layer with the top layer being the part that you most revere and is, in truth, the only part worth a visit. After a long walk from the lock to the town, we found ourselves in a rather downbeat area. Following the irreplacable Google map directions, we headed for the bridge to take us over the river to the part of the town that towered above us. We were fortunate to be crossing the bridge at sunset and stopped for a few minutes to take in the lovely scenery at this adorable part of the any day.....magical.

Then we still had an exhausting climb ahead of us. After what seemed forever and was probably about 10 minutes, we arrived in a area of the higher part of town that looked like it should be lively but it wasn't...it was disturbingly quiet. However, this was when another gem showed itself....we went into a small empty cafe/restaurant and was greeted by the delightful owner who served us with such warmth and charm with delicious food, it became and stayed, the best meal of the trip. A taxi back to the boat rounded off a perfect evening.

Bezier Cathedral

View from the top of the Cathedral

Our plan had been to leave in the morning, to get to through the staircase and be on our way but it was not to be. After a number of obstacles to our plans unfolded, we opted to go explore Beziers a little more and do the staircase in the afternoon. The available time for travelling through the lock staircase are limited as it takes a long time to get from one end to the other so our aim was to get to the front of the line for the afternoon climb.  So off we went back into the wedding cake town. And we got lost...again.... but eventually we found ourselves, had a few semi successful discoveries before coming across the Cathedral that formed the crown of the cake. And oh, was that worth it. What a glorious building. I walked and crawled all the way up the ancient winding staircase to get to the top of the Cathedral which was at the top of the 'cake' to be rewarded with spectacular views.

And the icing on the cake (OK, that's the last referral to cakes) was lunch. Just a stones throw from the Cathedral were a few pretty cafes. We picked the prettiest looking with the best menu with tables in the sun and were not disappointed. We had a lovely meal and then meandered happily back to the boat to head out to tackle the staircase. It was, as ever, hard work but lots of fun. And if we say so ourselves, we did a darn good job of it all. The only challenge was fighting my way through the tourists to catch and secure the lines for each lock. It's quite a tourist trap with people gathering daily to watch the process of boats going up and down.

Unscheduled stop at Poilhes

We had planned the day out but plans went happily astray when we were passing under the bridge at a little village called Poilhes and saw 4 Australians standing on the bridge. We had chatted with the group on a number of occasions and really liked them. They gave the thumbs up to the village so we promptly pulled in to join them for dinner in a remarkably sophisticated restaurant by the canal. We were also joined by three French Canadians. A great and very noisy evening was had by all.

One of the many large barges on the canal

Day 7 and we were heading out for Capestang, not a very French sounding name it is true but we stopped because it looked so pretty....and pretty it was with its winding streets, a HUGE church and very French square of cafes and cake shops. One more stop at the busy and rather commercial little town of Le Somail. It had some lovely canal side cafes and a huge bookshop selling books in lots of different languages on numerous subjects.

And then on for our last stretch on the canal to our destination to say a sad farewell to our little boat and head for our last night in a hotel in Carcassonne. If we had had the time, it would have been great to have visited more of the villages dotted along this part of the Canal but we were grateful for what we were able to see and eager to return at some stage to enjoy more.

Street of 'new' Carcassone

What a delightful and interesting town Carcassonne is...a wonderful addition and a soothing balm to ease the loss of being on the canal. The newer part of town (which is still very old) is lovely with some interesting buildings, wide open squares and cobbled streets. We walked through the lower town and headed to the old walled part of town where our hotel was situated. After booking in to the hotel, we headed back for the market that we had walked through to enjoy the hustle and bustle of buying and selling over a cup of coffee. We then sat and marvelled at the transformation of market to a square of cafes. As the market stalls were dismantled and removed, the tables, chairs and umbrellas came out to replace them. Slowly and steadily the transformation happened with seemingly seamless precision.

The walled town is all a little on the verge of looking like a set from a hotel in Las Vegas and is basically made up of shops, restaurants and cafes with a smattering of ghoulish offerings of museums of torture but it even with all of this it hasn't managed to lose all of the basic interest and charm of an ancient (though rebuilt) town. You can see the underlying charactor and charm of the place and imagine how it might have been in days gone by.

'New part of Carcassone'

Market place turns into cafe

Walled town of Carcassonne

Walled twon of Carcassonne

The main thing that I would say about Carcassonne is that we just did not have enough time to see and experience what it has to offer but we did get to enjoy the hustle and bustle of the market and the cafes in the lower part of town and spend some time in the walled town.

Summary of the week:

• Loved the canals. The mixture of the open Camargue and the leafy Midi were just perfect. 
• Our Boat was owned and run by Locaboat. The boats are a little old and well used but clean, functional and comfortable. We loved our little boat and it was very good value. 
• Take care of the 'Le Boat' boats....they are the BMW's of the waterways....fast, sleek, rather ugly in their solidness with drivers who often (but not always) did not lower their eyes enough to acknowledge the lower life of the Penichette boaters. 
• If you are used to sailing in English waters don't expect to take the charts too seriously, it can give you a headache trying to line reality up with charts if you do. 
• One week is great if you can get it but not really long enough, we were no where near ready to leave the canal. 
• Seeing wild Flamingos in the Camargue was just amazing. 
• Don't focus too much on the cleanliness of the canals, just make sure you do NOT fall in. With the plethora of boats and no holding tanks, pollution is not really an issue. It does not smell or cause any problems as long as you treat it as something to sit on, not IN. 
• The Midi has many small villages which we just didn't have the time to visit as much as we would have liked. And do go off the main track and go away from the canals....you will find some treasures. 
• People were friendly and helpful almost without exception. Happy to let me struggle with my rather pathetic French and help me out if they could speak English but only to gain clarity or offer an explanation. 

You can access the whole set of photos here.

My Introductin to Indonesia

And what an introduction!!

First of all I went to Jakarta. Why?...I hear you asking did I go to Jakarta?

 I went to Jakarta to visit a friend (my ex boss actually) from when I worked in Viet Nam. We have always kept in contact and despite being very different people (tall, elegant and polished v short, tatty and a little rough round the edges), we have always got on very well. So I wanted to see Natalie and she happens to live in Jakarta.

I can't say I fell in love with the city but I had a great time and liked a lot of what I experienced. For those not in the know, it is a HUGE city, busy with lots of people and traffic. I made Ha Noi look like a quiet village in comparison. It is a grand city with wide streets and big buildings but not what I would call attractive, It is a  place to live, not really visit.... unless you are visiting friends who happen to live in a rather comfortable part of town......which I was fortunate to be doing!

From from the ridiculous to the sublime......we took a flight to Borneo to do a tip that Natalie has already done and had loved it so much, she was eager to repeat the experience....and with good reason.

We were greeted at the airport by our guide and whisked off to join our boat. We were going to spend the remainder of our time in Borneo on a tiny boat on the river in the jungle with the express intent of seeing wild and semi wild orangutans. As always happens, having the opportunity of seeing these wonderful creatures in their own, natural environment is as different as chalk and cheese to seeing them in a zoo.....no matter how good the zoo is. In one word, it was MAGICAL.

The Orangutans were all rescued and reintroduced into the jungle. Most were the victims of logging where  they were orphaned by some accident or intervention. Many of course never make it back into their natural habitat because of the damage (physical or emotional) that they received. The ones who we saw are the lucky ones.

Day One

We arrived on the boat around midday and set off immediately. Nats and I lived on the top deck while the crew inhabited the lower deck. We were so well looked after. The food was excellent. Although sadly the Indonesian food was not suiting me so I was unable to do justice to anything more than the fruit, I really appreciated the effort that the lady went to in very cramped and challenging conditions. We stopped at the first feeding station around 2.00. It was a long weekend (Easter) so the river was very busy with people doing the same as our good selves but in the end, it really was not a problem.
We set off early to get to the station allowing ample time to take the long walk through the forest. The whole expedition took in my two greatest loves in nature.....water and dense forests.....there is something deeply satisfying in being in or by both elements.

We arrived at the feeding station early and got a good place near to the feeding station. The guys and gals started to arrive a few minutes before the bananas offering us an impressive display of acrobatics as they swung effortlessly through the trees.  The first day, we saw a large male, a couple of his ladies and their youngsters. We were all there for about 30 minutes until all the banans had gone and then all went out own ways....us on the path back to the boats and our furry cousins swinging through the trees.

A cruise down the river in the afternoon and we began to see the proboscis monkeys. In the afternoon/early

evenings, they all come to the edge of the forest near to the river so we were able to watch them doing all the things that monkeys do in the wild setting.  They are seriously ugly with their bulbous noses but they do have a certain charm that is very engaging.

We decided to 'park' the boat away from the jetty where everyone else was and tied up to some sturdy greenery on the edge of the forest. We snuggled up in bed on deck going to sleep to the gentle noises of nature.

Day Two 
After breakfast, we set off for the second feeding station. What we missed out on in numbers, were made up for in stature. Only one orangutan appeared but what a handsome fellow he was. He gave us an amazing display of flexibility, swinging on tall thin trees that seemed totally unable to hold some weight and power.

He  came down at ground level on the edge of where we were all standing. People who had been enthusiastic in getting as close as possible to him while he was high in the tree suddenly retreated on mass as he headed for ground level. But he was not in the least bit interested in us and ambled leisurely towards the feeding platform where he enjoyed a feast of bananas and milk.

Afterwards, we took a long walk back to the boat and our guide pointed out many trees and plants that the local people still use as medicine including the bark of a tree that they peel and coil and use for keeping the mosquitos at bay. The Forest is so lovely......we were in the secondary forest, the areas that have been reclaimed and reforested. The Primary forest must be truly lovely. There are a peace and silence that are difficult to explain and impossible to replicate.

And so onto our third feeding station. And what a treat we have in store!

This was now Easter Sunday and the number of boats and people have increased with additional local day So we left the boat early and took a long walk around to the station. On route, our eagle eyed guide  spotted a mother and youngster in the trees. He called to the them and they came over towards where we were. The next piece needs a little explanation.....

The guides like our guy cannot feed the animals. The only people allowed to feed them are the people who work at the feeding stations themselves. They carry food with them to help to sort out any issues that might develop where they need to draw an orangutan away from people. It happened that one of these 'keepers' was following us on the same track. He saw mum and called her over offering her peanuts. Then much to my surprise and delight, he gave me peanuts to give to both mum and babe. We spent about 15/20 minutes engaging closely with these two and had the best time of the whole trip.

Eventually they both led us to the feeding station where we joined the rest of the visitors.
trippers. They did not have any bananas left to offer so the orangutans were given milk. This offered a whole bundle of interest both for the drinkers and watchers. One of the youngsters didn't seem to have any idea of how to manage the milk unlike his friend who made the best use of a splendid jutting lower lip and a large cupped hand to make the most of the milk....he didn't miss a drop!!! (this is a picture of the messy one!!). There is an adorable video of the other one in the attachment at the end of this blog.

After dinner, we were heading down the river and arrived at the right spot at the right time as a troop of proboscis monkeys were swimming across the river.....again, there is a short video of that on the attachment.

Then in hunt of the fireflies. When we eventually tracked a group down, they were clinging onto a large tree and making it look for all the world like a decorated Christmas tree. Dinner, a short night walk and we all climbed into bed.

Day Three
All too same, we are heading back to civilization. Thankfully the boat is quite slow and there was no rush but  all the same, it was just not long enough. I wanted more, much more but am also eternally grateful for this wonderful opportunity. These are a few more favourite images but if you want more, go to the attachment where you will find over 200 (edited down from nearly 500) photos with a few short videos.

   
Hope you enjoy the photos as much as we enjoyed taking them.

Pat
https://plus.google.com/photos/103791184164606873174/albums/5866564627103384945

Back in Viet Nam

After an absence of 14 months, I am finally back in Ha Noi. I have no idea why but I love this crazy, noisy city and its stern looking residents who are so easy with a smile and a helping hand when needed. I guess it took me all of about 3 hours to feel at home once more. It is only a visit but thankfully an elongated one for a total of 2 months.

My life when I lived and worked here was busy and pretty intense. Here as a visitor I am enjoying a more relaxed way of being something between a tourist and a visiting dignitary. I had many Vietnamese friends when I was here and have been catching up with all of them. Visiting my old haunts. I was astonished and delighted to find that when I visited the area in which I lived that I was recognized by a number of the local residents.

One elderly lady and her younger daughter live in a small house in an alley that I traversed every day to and from work. I walked by thinking A) they might not be there or B) they would not remember me. Far from it, I was greeted with such warmth, dragged into their room and regaled with a barrage of unintellible Vietnamese 99.9% of which I understood nothing of and it mattered not at all. We laughed and I looked at.she is totally adorable. We have never been able to 'talk' in the conventional sense but it really does not matter. I found the same with another older lady and her family who have a shop selling flowers and a young teenager who used to give me a ride on his motorbike sometimes when it was very hot and I was carrying shopping home from the market. The teenager has grown into a charming young man in the time I have been away.

their family photos that I have seen a dozen times before and basked in the warmth. I did get that the elderly lady is now 80 and looking just great. She goes out for a walk every day down the alley and back with the help of her daughter. Otherwise, she sits on her bed greeting passers by like some sort of Queen in waiting...

I spent the first few days in a hotel but since then the only 'problem' is deciding which offer to accept to stay at my friend's houses The welcome and warmth of heart is quite overwhelming at times and totally wonderful.

My stay here is going to be all too short...the longer I am here, the more that I know that to be the case. I simply must find a way of spending as much time as possible here for as long as I can.

So if you are reading this and are tempted to come.....do so. If you want information about travel etc, I can recommend www.hghue.com, a travel agent based in Hue but covering the whole country and Indochina. I own up to be a little biased as I have written their website and help with their marketing. And if you are planning a trip to Sapa in the north, visit www.sapatourguide. info. Again, I hold my hand up to being rather biased. Panh (pronounced Ban) is a local lady from the Black H'mong tribe and is a dear friend and I developed the site to share her wonderful skills and personality with anyone visiting the area. You will totally fall in love with her....... her English is impeccable and her sense of humor is quite wicked at times.

So yes I am biased. Which is why I spend time talking to whoever will listen about the wonders of this lovely country and supporting people I meet in any way I can to better themselves. So get your ticket, pack you case and come with an open heart and a big smile......and have a great time!!!

Pat

Ha Giang VietNam

When you go to Viet Nam for a visit...and please tell me that you WILL go and visit this beautiful country, don't miss a trip to Ha Giang Province. 

One of the many breathtaking scenes in Ha Giang

Ha Giang is in the north and hosts the most northerly point in Viet Nam before Viet Nam becomes China and it has the most breathtaking scenery. 


Quite rightly, everyone makes for Sa Pa and there is good reason. I love Sa Pa. And oh, bye the way, before you go, you might want to take a look at this website that I built for my friend Panh (pronounced Ban). Panh is from the Black Hu’mong tribe and speaks perfect English as well as a number of other languages. 


Go visit www.sapatourguide.info to learn more about Sa Pa and what Panh will do to make your stay extra special. 


So, let's get back to Ha Giang Province. 


Ha Giang is less commercial than Sa Pa. In fact the tourists who go there are, in the main on the back of a motorbike. There are tours arranged from Ha Noi or, of course, if you are really adventurous, you can always go on your own. But be warned, people in this area, in the main, do not speak any English and it is definitely not aimed at the tourist trade. 


Being rather a coward when it comes to driving a two wheeled vehicle but loving the excitement of riding pillion, I did it the easy way. I took a local bus from Ha Noi (always an adventure in itself!) and booked a tour guide for 3 days to drive me around the most beautiful part of the Province. 


Nam was my guide and was just wonderful. Nam is Vietnamese but lived in America for many years so speaks perfect English and Vietnamese. He has many years of experience with bikes and drives like a pro. He also rents out bikes and offers advice and support in getting the necessary visas. (in order to go to the north of the Province, you have to get a Visa). 


He booked me a hotel, collected me from the bus and basically looked after me for the days that we were together. 


You can see more pictures of the Province here Ha Giang Province.

Cambodia

Click here to see photos of Cambodia.

September had a blessed national holiday day so my American pal, Sarah and I planned a trip to Cambodia. Sarah is going back home in December so this was to be our last holiday together.

We flew from Ha Noi via Laos to Siem Reap in the north of Cambodia. Our hotel was basic but great value for money. A quick lunch and we were off exploring the town.

Siem Reap is the town nearest to Ankar Wat and its purpose is mainly to serve the visitors for Ankar Wat. The result is a highly commerical, restaurant riddled town where everyone speaks English and has the sole purpose of getting dollars from you. Its a nice town, well laid out and there not totally Eurpeanised yet.

Ankar Wat is a huge geographical area in which there are numerous ancient temples...some grand, some huge, others more localised temples and smaller. We bought a pass for the week that enabled us to go to any temple without extra costs. As with most people I guess, we headed straight for the largest and the main temple on the first evening. To get to the site, you need to take a Tut Tut which is a carriage pulled by a motorbike. I loved this mode of transport and have lingering and favoured memories of driving around the area enjoying the scenery. It took us a couple of days but we eventually managed to connect with a young guy we liked and we hired him for the rest of the week to drive us wherever we wanted to go. He was great and really looked after us. He made himself exclusively available to us until 6.00pm when he went to school to study management.

So back to the temples.........we both LOVED the ones that were more rugged, that had been taken over by the trees, These trees are called Elephant trees and you can see why when you look at the 'trunks'..they really do look like elephant trunks. Unsurprisingly, some of these sites have been used for shots for the Indiana Jones movies in the past......you do feel like you are in a film set sometimes. It really does pay to follow the advice in the guidebooks to go when most of the visitors are eating breakfast or lunch. The difference in the atmosphere is huge when there are not hordes of photo clicking. video making foreigners crawling over everything....OK, I know I am really one of them but I like to pretend that I am not!

The only downside of going in the quieter times is that you are open fodder for the many people who have something that you do not want to sell you for 'just a dollar'. That was the main downside of Siem Reap. From the minute you leave your hotel to the minute you get back, there will be someone snapping at your heels wanted you to buy something from them or simply to give them money....there are a lot of beggars. The temples are the worst but the town is much the same especially at night. It does get a little tiring at times. They are not aggressive but but very persistent.

It was interesting going to Cambodia from living and working in Vietnam. Both are countries ravaged by recent disasters that led to an unbelievable number of deaths. I have great admiration for the Vietnamese for how they have picked themselves up and are charging forward. They are very resilient and focused. Its probably totally unfair as I was only in Cambodia for one week but I just didn't feel that there. There seem to be quieter, more subservient people....more likely to be led rather be leaders as a general characteristic. I guess I was surprised to find the huge difference in character but that's like assuming that the English are like the French (ha ha) or the Americans and like the Mexicans just because of the proximity of their countries. It took me a few days to adjust but then I did begin to enjoy the differences in the people.

One of the highlights of the trip was that we went horse riding. I was totally amazed by the quality of the stables.....talk about 5 star treatment!!....it was owned and managed by a Cambodian who had lived in America for years and had obviously done very well for himself. We went for 4 hours through the countryside which basically meant that we were paddling (or rather the horses were paddling) through water for most of the time given the fact that we were at the end of the rainy season. It was great if not just a little long to be in the saddle. My horse did not have the best of walking gaits and we walked for most of the time. Out guide had only been riding for 3 months and had obviously had little experience of anything above a walk. We did one trot for about 2 minutes when he abruptly stopped saying that his belly hurt.....hmn......I would have loved to have a canter and my horse was desperate to do the same but I didn't push it as I really didn't have any faith in the ride leader and had the feeling that my horse would be off like a bullet given half the chance. But it was all great fun and we got to see some stuff that we had not seen to date. Unfortunately, photos are limited as I was rather busy keeping my would be galloping steed in check but trust me, it was all rather lovely. Wasn't sure about the herd of water buffalo that we had to ride through. These are big ugly and strong animals and they have an eerie habit of watching you as you move past. They were very edgy about the horses and there were a lot of them.......was glad to be the other side of that part of the ride.

The best bits of the holiday.....

Spending some quality time with Sarah. We chose to spend the 6 days in Siem Reap which gave us a lot of time to do stuff and time to just chill out and chat.

Some of the temples were just wonderful. I also loved the walk up the mountainside we did with our driver.

Driving around in the Tut Tut.

We made friends with some of the locals in town who were fun to be around for a little while.

The fresh air. I had had a cough for a while in Ha Noi and it went almost immediately when we got to Siem Reap. Within two days of being back, it re emerged....just one of the few downsides to life in Ha Noi.

Being active.. I love being outdoors and being active. I did not go anywhere near a computer or a phone for the whole week and it was such a treat. Although of course, I hasten to add that I am more than happy to get back to using the computer just as I am delighted to be back in Ha Noi despite the pollution.

So that was Cambodia. Would not dash back but delighted to have been. The only other area of Cambodia that I would like to visit is the coastline which is supposed to be lovely and, in parts, unspoilt and non touristy..........watch this space, maybe it will happen.

This blog is written with my own personal viewpoint and opinion and in no way reflects any views or beliefs of VSO.

July 2010: Holiday in and around Ha Noi

In no way does this Blog reflect any thoughts, opinions or ideas of VSO.

July 2010

Frank came over from the UK to join me in Viet Nam for a holiday and we had a blast. It was HOT and very steamy so our energy levels needed to be carefully utilised but despite that, we had a great time.

Frank arrived on the Friday night just in time for a group of my favourite people in the VSO world to descend on Ha Noi to gather together as it was the birthdays of two of their group. This was the group that arrived 2 months after me in March. Four of their group are based in Ha Noi and three in different placements around the country. Anyway, I (we) hosted a drinks get together at my new house (moved in just 3 weeks) then we all went out to dinner together. So for Frank, it was in at the deep end. After a lovely brunch the following day with the group, Frank and I headed to downtown Ha Noi.

After a couple of days in Ha Noi, we headed out for our first trip, two days in the Ninh Binh area visiting the extraudinary beauty spots and a rescue primate centre that had primates peculiar to Viet Nam....cute!!

A few days back in Ha Noi to rest up and explore then we were off to the valley of ........... for a couple of nights. We went primarily because it was supposed to be a place to cool off from the heat of Ha Noi and it turned out to be having a heat wave! Undaunted we pressed on. Day one, we went for a bike ride. Day two a walk and then we went for to visit a cave and went deep into the mountain. It was exhausting and wonderful. Later that day, we took a ride up into the mountains to an ethnic minority village and market. These are the Blue Humong tribes (and they all wear blue) and the Flower Humong tribe (they wear multi coloured clothing. The market was a treasure trove of colour!!

Back to Ha Noi! We sat one evening in the old quarter with a glass of locally brewed beer at a road junction watching the antics of Vietnamese people weaving their round each other with their various loads and passengers.....all of course, on motor bikes.

We loved the first two trips but we definitely saved the best 'til last......Ha Long Bay and Cat Ba Island.

We spent the first day on a rather grotty run down boat, visited the cave then went to Cat Ba Island. Cat Ba is the largest of the islands in the Bay and is mainly made up of mountains with gaps in between where the odd village or town collects. We went to the main town in the south side of the island, booked into the hotel and then went exploring. Cat Ba is something like a mixture of a mini Blackpool and Southsea. For the non English readers, a mixture of pure honest tackiness and cute old fashioned style.

We loved it. We had a drink on the seafront and got offered a massage....hmn......totally unsure, I was ready to say NO until the guy started and then I just relaxed and enjoyed the whole experience. Frank also got the same treatment....hmnnnnn.....

Dinner was less delicious unfortunately but never mind. It was raining heavily in the morning so we skipped the 2 hour trek into the mountains and settle for a walk and a long sit in at a lovely friendly cafe that served drinks and lunch. Back to the hotel to be collected to go to Monkey Island for a couple of hours. Apparently we had the use of a kayak in our deal so kayaking we went. It wasn't too successful at first due to having two skippers onboard with differing techniques but we finally got it together.

Back to the mainland and then back to our boat where we were staying for night 2. No old battered run down boat this time.....the pictures tell their own story. We have a great time and got back to Ha Noi the following evening well pleased with the whole thing.

And then all too soon, it was time for Frank to head back to the UK. It was a great holiday. We saw lots, had a lot of fun and met some wonderful people along the way.

August 2010

This Blog is based on my personal views only and in no way reflects any views or opinions of VSO.

I never quite know where to start with these blogs. There is always so much to say, too much really in many ways.

General overview:

I continue to love my life here in Viet Nam. I am so so lucky to work in an office with some wonderful people who have become my friends. I look forward to going to work on Monday mornings as much as I look forward to greeting the weekends on Friday afternoons. I also consider myself lucky to be in Ha Noi. Before I came here, when I would tell people where I was coming, previous visitors would smile with lighted eyes and report their own experiences and love of the city. It has to be said that is not a universal opinion..it seems that you love it or hate it but I guess that's the same anywhere in the world. People gasp in horror when I describe Egypt as definitely NOT my favourite destination and a place I am glad I went to visit but would not do a return even on a free holiday.

So what do I love about Viet Nam. The country is beautiful and varied in its terrain from the rice tiers of Sa Pa to the lowlands of the central plains. The people are very special. They make a hobby of cheating vistitors..... it is true. Their concept of service is not always the best, I have to admit. They put no value in the basic things like hand over mouth when sneezing or using toilets instead of road sides to have a pee. The guys especially can be somewhat uncouth....not the image of a sexy dreamboat. But they do (as they say) brush up well and the ones who take care of their appearance and clean up their behaviour can be very attractive.

But they have a wonderful sense of humour. They are friendly. I live in the middle of an old village in the north of Ha Noi that has a large ex pat population mixed in with the people who have lived here for generations. I have chosen to be in a street with less of the ex pats and more of the locals and it is just perfect. They don't perceive us as visitors from outer space (as happens in the more remote areas) but there are not too many of us that they tire of our presence.

I have a growing range of friends here outside of work. I go along to an English group on Sunday afternoons where young Viets get together to practice their English. I go along to help occasionally with pronunciations and vocabulary but mainly to have fun with everyone and to talk English to them in a relaxed way that they don't get from lessons and the internet.

Work I have mentioned. I love everyone at my office but a couple of people in particular are becoming good friends.

I do spent some time with some of the other volunteers but it is minimal. My best buddy over here is Sarah. She and I arrived on the same day and have remained friends ever since. We holiday together and get together as much as possible on weekends given the fact that she lives so far away in the central district. David works in the same office as me as so Kiran and Mike. And I currently share a house with two other VSO volunteers. Other than that, I rarely see other people. They do arrange a regular Friday night get together at a Bia Hoi (a local 'bar' with cheap beer and food) but I rarely go to that. Friday's I just want to chill out with a bit of TV and a good book usually.

My latest involvement is with a group of people called the Three Trees. Three ladies (2 Vietnamese and one NZ) came across a centre for disabled children and elders on the outer edge of the Ha Noi boundary. This was about 3 years ago. The place touched the hearts of these wonderful women and they started to collect funds and to take presents out to the centre. I got involved about 5 months ago when they were wanting to get someone to help who had some experience in Disability and could advice them as to what to do to maximise their input to the centre.

Needless to say, I got hooked. I went on a couple of visits then offered to go one afternoon a week to work alongside the staff to help and to get a better idea of what they need to make things better for the children. With the support of my project manager, that is what I now do. I go with two young Vietnamese people every week in a private car to the centre. It takes us 2 hours to get there and around 2.5 hours to get back (ughy traffic) so we get about 3 hours. The first hour, we do something with the more able, more mobile children and young people. I guess our overall aim here is FUN. We do dancing, exercises, arts and craft.....each week we try and do something slightly different. They are such fun to be with. Some are quite intelligent but have a physical disability, others have learning disabilities. The pictures posted are of this group. They can be quite a handful at times but the more they get to know us, the more they are calming down and just enjoying what we have to offer.

We then go down to the 'cot rooms'. These are the babies and the more disabled children and here, it is a whole different world. Everyone is at the centre because they were abandoned by their families. This can be through stigma (shame at having a non perfect child) or poverty (just simply not being able to cope) or a mixture of both. Whatever reason, the children end up here.

Some of the cot children do not respond at all. Some cry, some just lay inert. And then there are the ones who follow your every move and the ones who reach out. Some of the children recognise us now and associate us with toys and play and maybe getting out of their cots for a while. When I say 'cots' you can draw up an imagine of what that is. But strip your imagined cot of any frills or soft furnishings, these are metal frames with metal slats on the bottom.....no soft furnishings at all. The larger cots are the same format but large enough to hold 6 to 9 children lying down. Again, no soft furnishings. Some lie on a ratten mat but nothing more. The children live the majority of their little lives in these cots. They are fed while lying on their backs and have little to no stimulation. They wear old rags as diapers which get changed when necessary.

I am writing this very factually and as it is. I have been going there for the two months to work alongside the staff. Could more be done for the children in the current situation? Of course. there is always more that we can do. But I also understand the huge pressures that the staff are under. Some of the staff do offer attention to the children and will engage with them during feeding time. (and it is like 'feeding time' with up to 6 children being fed at the same time with the same spoon from the same bowl). But there are too few staff....two staff working with 16 profoundly handicapped babies and children. Resources are appalling. There are no toys for the children, no playground. Most of them never see the outside world at all.

I love my Thursday afternoon with the children. It takes me back to my roots, back to what I love so much to do and have denied myself for so long.......to work directly with children with disabilities. I love that I can contribute- however minutely- some love and attention to these mites who have drawn such a short straw in life. Maybe another time I will share some photos but not until I have permission to do so from the director of the center.

So that is about me up to date in general terms. I will post this and then will shortly post a follow up with LOTS of photos of a recent holiday in Viet Nam that I took with Frank.