A Week in Barcelona, Nov.2013

Day One

Arrived at airport pretty event less flight other than a very smelly man to right and a kicker to the rear. We did however have a great crew on board. The chief steward greeted everyone with a genuine smile and often with a personal positive comment to most people who boarded the plane. And he kept up the friendly banter all the way through. Thanks easyjet, it made for a great start to the week.

Barcelona has rather a sad looking airport but it was functional which, at the end of the day is what you need. The train station was attached to the airport with a number of ticket machines that were easy enough to use. We got a packet of tickets for the week. Had about 15 minutes to to wait before heading off for the city centre. Working out our stop was easy enough. And we had some surprisingly good entertainment on the train.

Finding how to get from the stop to the apartment was not quite so simple especially when we realised that we did not have any instructions and only had a very simple, not detailed map of the city. After a few false alarms, I did the only sensible thing and asked to find that we were just round the corner from our destination! A few more false alarms and, hey presto, we arrived. Well, we arrived at the building, we then had to decipher the rather complicated instructions for finding the keys for the apartment. Our final hurdle of the night was to open the door of the apartment with the strangest ‘key’ I have ever seen. But Frank prevailed and we sighed a sigh of relief on gaining access to our home for the next week And it was OK...large, comfortable, bland but a pretty good short term rental apartment complete with all amenities. On our travels en route, we noticed with relief that just next door there was a restaurant and just across the road there was a small local (OPEN) shop where we could pick up some basics for the morning. So dinner, shopping and bed in the hope of seeing some sun in the morning.

Day Two

After a reasonable nights sleep, we woke up to an overcast sky. Breakfast’ed, we set off for ‘La Rambla’..... the street where you have to be in Barcelona …..apparently! As we found out during the week, it certainly is the core of the hub of the old area of the city. Anyway, we soon realise that this apartment that we thought was well placed is even better than we thought. Which is just as well as the weather is not so great. Cool and wet! 

Undeterred, off to find 'La Rambla' and en route passed some impressive buildings. Not as lively as suggested in the tour guide probably something to do with the weather. I guess the street entertainers are less enthusiastic to perform on the off chance of maybe getting a few euros in the pouring rain. We cut off the main boulevard into the interesting looking narrow streets of the old city. After a wet wander we decided it was time for a drink and a nibble. Made a great choice in a cafe. Friendly smile don't seem to come with the service here but it certainly does not help that we have virtually no Spanish to share. While this is not an obstacle to ordering as every one speaks perfect English, it does not encourage any warmth. Suitably refreshed we set off again on our journeying.

The old streets with the occasional square are great fodder for viewing and

we eventually arrived at a large open area with the Cathedral flanking one side. We had to wait a few minutes for the worshippers to leave (it being Sunday afternoon) but then were allowed to pay our six euros each to enter (apparently in the morning and after 5.00 its free!). Wow what a depressing and foreboding place….. all  heaviness and morbidity. The cloisters were lighter and easier on the senses but I have to say I was glad to leave the cathedral itself and take a breathe of fresh (if wet) air. Another wander through the

narrow streets of the old town and another refreshment and drying off stop (thankfully this time with smiles accompanying the service) and we started planning the evening. Sometime during the day we had picked up a brochure for a classical Spanish guitar recital. We decided to get tickets and go along. So tickets safely tucked away we headed home to dry off and rest before dinner and entertainment. We also made a rough plan for the rest of the week, weather depending.

Well dinner was not such a great success. We did not leave enough time for deliberations for choosing the optimal place to eat and ran out of time ending up with a piece of pizza and sandwich which was just about adequate. But who cares.... we went to a magnificent recital. I am sure the guitar player had at least three miniature guitar players tucked under the table behind him. I swear it's impossible to create those sounds from one instrument. I was fascinated by his left hand. It reminded me of ‘Thing’ in the TV program and films of the Adams Family back in the 70's. ( it was a disembodied hand that had its own identity moving independently through life). I was totally transfixed and for me that is quite something as music is just NOT my thing. Of course it was still raining when we came out of the crypt (forgot to mention that the performance was in the crypt of a church). Frank wanted  something to eat and eventually got a waffle with chocolate and  walnuts. Back home and to bed!

Day 3 loomed......you guessed it.......cool and WET! Not going to be put off with a little rain, we set off as planned to join a guided walk around the weird and wonderful world and creations of Barcelona's own, the architect, Gaudi. We had a delightful lively guide called Kathryn who was totally unfazed by the rain despite the rather heavy downpour at times. It was a testament to her enthusiasm that we all stayed with her except for 2 people who had no raincoats at all and even they came back when the rain eased off. 

We saw the outside of three houses and got the history of this fascinating man before heading out to his last and still unfinished monument….the Sagrada Familia. Love or hate it, his work definitely makes a statement. As we later discovered, he was only one of many architects of his time in the city who worked in the Art Deco style but it was his obsession with the very best of raw materials and ways of working that made his so different. If it looked like solid marble, it was, if it looked like an unusual wood that came from the other side of the world, it was because it was. At the start of the tour, Kathrine posed the question of whether he was a genius or a madman. My feeling at the end of the tour and increasingly as I saw his work that he was probably both with one side feeding the other.

We arrived home rather sodden and cold but soon warmed up and got comfortable. We decided in our wisdom to visit that night, a Tapas bar that was recommended in trip adviser. That in itself was very wise, the fact that it was it was in the north of the city nearly 2 kilometres away and not around the corner became a challenge when we set off in the pouring rain. Well to cut a long and very wet story short, we finally arrived and had a great time. In all truth, very mediocre food but a great welcome, wonderful atmosphere and great wine!

Day 4

NO RAIN! What a relief! We were more than ready for a break. We set off to meet up with Kathryn

once more to do the walk in the Old Quarter of the city. Only a small group today which was perfect. We really enjoyed this walk even more that the previous day. Weather definitely helped but it was also more varied and offered more about the history of the city. At the end we headed off for lunch and found a cafe with a table and chairs in the SUN…….ahhh…..wonderful. I had a great lunch, Frank not so good but we did enjoy the space enormously. Had a walk down to the sea then up from the bottom of La Rambla back to where we had started the morning with Kathryn to book some tickets at Tarantos for 8.30 performance of the Flamenco dancing for the following night. I had found this place on the Internet but then when I asked for a recommendation from K, she said that there were only 2 places worth going to in the city, a jazz club somewhere and Los Tarantos!

Day 5

Still no rain but now much colder. Today was the day we had assigned to the tourist bus with a number of stops en route. We spent the day on the open top floor of the bus for as long as we could stand the cold then scuttle downstairs to warm up or get off, visit something and have a hot drink. Our first stop was to visit the Sagrada Familia. What a story...150 years in the building and still lots to go but what an amazing monument. Quite unlike any church you have ever seen, the inside is full of light and space...which is just as well as it was increasingly full of tourists. We arrived about

9.45, got straight in and enjoyed the first 20 minutes or so in relative quiet but as the morning progressed, it got busier and busier. It is a must for anyone visiting Barcelona whatever your religious conviction. I really like the fact that although it is consecrated by the christian church and is undeniably christian in identity, it has a wider heart embracing more of the spirit of spirituality rather than the doctrines of the church.

Our next stop was at the Gaudi Park. This was an unexpected delight. Again. very busy but the open spaces made it feel less crowded. Another unfinished project, it has been re created as a total experience. We were lucky enough to be able to bask in a little sun during our visit. Our lunchtime decision was not so great and we ended up with eating a bowl of potatoes and having a glass of wine...the rest was really quite inedible. So back to the bus and onto the change over point of the day from red bus to blue bus. We scuttled off to warm up in a nearby Starbucks before boarding the blue

bus. By now it was early evening and dark and we debated whether to bother with the last part of the day but went ahead and I was glad that we did. We saw Barcelona at night from the lower level and then from the Montjuic hillside and finally down by the waterfront. It was beyond cold but we stuck it out for most of the trip. We ended the trip near the cathedral and went for the customary hot drink in order to orientate ourselves for getting to the Flamenco show. The cafe/restaurant looked good and we decided to aim to return post show to eat.

The Flamenco was pretty raw and very exciting. It is true that the performers have probably seen better days but they were entertaining and we had a great time. The venue is small and intimate and just perfect for Flamenco. After the show we headed back for the restaurant we had found earlier and had a good meal.

Day 6

What a treat this morning. I had decided that I wanted to go and see the Palau De La Musica Catalana….what a special place. As soon as I walked in, I got the atmosphere as well as the intrinsic

beauty of the design of the building. We started out with a touching video about the theatre and people who have performed there. We then set out for the tour with the best and most informative guide I have had anywhere for a long time. His passion for the place shone through. He gave us the history, talked about the architect and about the original purpose for the building….for choirs to perform. And then we went into the auditorium to find that the quartet due to play that evening were practising. So we got the full tour PLUS getting to enjoy it with the backdrop of this superb young group. WHAT A TREAT!!

I came out in something of a daze as we headed off for lunch which for me was great but for Frank a bit of a disaster. He managed to miss out on the verbal and visual cue that the local speciality Pork dish was, indeed, trotters!

The afternoon, we headed for the Guell Palace just off La Rambla. It’s impressive and mind boggling in so many ways with the details of design, the multiple patterns of wood and ironwork and everything looking like it would be more at home in a building about ten times the size (at least). Pretty it is not! But well worth the visit as Gaudi’s first large project.

The second trip to Los Tarantos proved to even better than the first. The group were definitely more polished and the dancer was great..and we got better seats as we got there earlier.

In search of somewhere to eat we stumbled on a lively place down a small lane successful because of some very enthusiastic and inviting guys on the nearest corner. We caught the end of yet another Flamenco show and enjoyed a good meal in an entertaining place.

Day 7 and the last day

Our flight was due to take off at 5.00 so we planned the day with precision to make the most of the day and not lose sight of the time crunch. After dropping of our cases, we headed for the Roman

Ruins at the Museu D’Historia De Barcelona very near to the Cathedral. It was a bit of a gamble with neither of us really that interested in Roman ruins but it was a real treat and am so glad not to have missed it. You travel down into the basement and wander along the well defined ‘streets’ able to clearly see the fish sauce factory, the laundry, dye shop and wine making hall as well as sections of houses and the wine. It was wonderfully organised and the auditory commentary was great.

We then headed off to find a vegetarian restaurant that Frank had found. It sort of topped the day off really. Great value and delicious food with friendly and helpful staff. Collect case, off to the airport arriving eventually home around 9.00pm after a rather wet, cold and very exciting week in Barcelona.

General Feelings/Impressions

This is a complex and intriguing city with so much to do it is a challenge to choose.

It can be expensive but it does not need to be. The city museums are excellent and very reasonably priced. Same with cafes and restaurants. Go off the main streets and you will find that the prices will drop significantly.

Lots of choices for place to eat but it all seems very similar. Tapas are good for some occasions but they do get a little boring. I missed my vegetables!!

Great wine, reasonable prices.

Did find some friendly people but on the whole found locals a bit dour and not too friendly. But I am putting that down to my lack of language and have promised myself to have at least the basics before I go again.  

These pictures are a brief look at the places we saw, if you want to see more, CLICK HERE.

Some useful information:

• For walking tours go to www. runnerbeantours.com/Barcelona. They are free, donate what you think the leader of the tour deserves.
• Los Tarantos in the Place Reial (just off La Rambla)
• We used the Turustic Bus which is not the best of tours that I have ever taken but it does take you to the important places, just don't rely on the commentary to provide any useful information. 
• For restaurants, hunt around the back streets...its there you will find the gems. 
• For short stay apartments, try Loving Apartments, Carrer de la Diputacio 291, Barcelona or email barcelona@loving apartments.com
• DO NOT MISS going to the Sagrada Famila but go early in the day and definitely DO NOT MISS the Palau de la Musica. 
• We only went to one of the Barcelona city owned museums but it was very impressed. They are cheap (8 euros) and the one we went to had an exceptional layout and an audio guide which is, for me, second to none as it is the only guide that I have ever finished. I usually get bored after the first 5 minutes. 
• Do your homework. There is SO much to see and do in this city, it is easy to get overwhelmed. 
• Unless you are a real fan of Gaudi, don't focus too much time on his work as there is so much more to see and they can be quite expensive. 

Boating on the Canal Du Midi

On a boat on the water is my idea of heaven be it sailing on the sea, travelling on a ferry or a rowing boat on Camargue and the Midi on an adorable Penichette boat.....sort of a cross between a long boat and a fishing boat. It was comfortable and handled very well.

Our Penichette on the Canal du Midi

A few years ago, I had my first experience on the canals in England and totally loved it despite the wet, cold weather. This year, we decided to try a new experience and went to the south of France to spend a glorious week on the Canals of the South of France.

Montpellier

Starting the adventure at the beautiful town of Montpellier, we then picked up our little boat and headed off on the suggested agenda. The canals were just lovely and very varied. The first part took us in the area of the Camargue on the Canal du Rhone de Sete. This is not like any canal I had ever seen with the Mediterranean sea on one side and lakes and rivers on the other side with just a narrow stretch of pathways to separate the three. We had an open stretch of water to cross at the Etang de Thau. There are some towns on the lake and we decided to make a stop in one of them and found a charming gem of a plae in Meze. As much as I loved the first part of the trip, getting to the Midi was just wonderful.....the trees, the villages and towns and the moored boats along the way all added to the beauty and peacefulness of this wonderful Canal. Sadly many of the trees will be lost in the coming years as they are suffering from some sort of disease and will be cut down. We we feel very blessed to have been able to visit and enjoy the canal as it is now....indeed, as it has been for many years.

The Canal du Midi

The Canal du Midi

We learnt early not to take the charts too seriously as they didn't always line up too well with reality. Everything happens so slowly however, we had the time to adapt. adjust and deal with whatever little surprises came our way.  There were times when my meagre French was tested up to and beyond its limits but again, the kindness and patience of people enabled me to stumble my way through both speaking and understanding most things. On the subject of language the thing I loved the most and appreciated the most was that all the locals enabled me to speak in French. They would wait patiently for me to express myself then very often would just check or add the necessary word in English that far surpassed my French. That gave me a lot of confidence to do more throughout the week.

Of course, the food was just delicious. There were some surprises through misinterpretations but on the whole, we got what we wanted and thoroughly enjoyed it. But then this is France we are talking about!

After the lovely easy friendliness of Montpelier, we had set a very high standard for the following towns to match up to. On the whole, they did just that, in their own unique style.

The walled city of Aiges Morte

The main square inside Aiges Morte

Aiges Morte was our first overnight stop after Montepellier. It is a lovely old walled city. Its full of shops and restaurants and full of tourists. The real treat was that, during the late afternoon and evening, the majority of tourists have gone leaving the lovely little town to the visitors on boats or campers. We had a very pleasant evening in the square eating a meal that for me was plain delicious and for Frank something of a surprise especially when we realised that Gésier actually means gizzard...he did lose a little of his appetite at that point.

After a pleasant shopping expedition in the newer part of town the following morning and a shower in a rather disgusting shower block, we headed out.

Villeneuve-ls-Maguelonne was our next stop for lunch and an expedition. We 'parked' then walked across the swinging bridge (one of the surprises that we were not expecting on the canal) and walked down to see a re built ancient Cathedral. The walk was lovely and we got to see and photograph some wild Flamingos. It gave me such a thrill to see these birds in the wild. I had read that they lived in this area but had not really believed that they were common enough to actually SEE them.

And there were lots of them!! 

 The Cathedral and, indeed the whole area was charming. It was set in a large vineyard with a view of the sea, a lovely cafe that looked like a well restored building and, of course, the Cathedral. The Cathedral had been restored by the Faberge family and we wondered if they indeed owned the land, vineyard etc. Inadvertently we took a ride down to the beaches (wrong direction) on some free transport but eventually got back to the boat to continue on our way.We loved it.

A water jousting boat at Frontignan

We became very glad to have spent the time to stop and enjoy the afternoon especially as the overnight stop had only one thing to offer......a swinging bridge that only opened briefly twice a day to let you through! There is very little else to say about Frontignan......it is simply somewhere to pass through! Now this is a little warning. We were so impresssed by one persons positive Blog on Frontignan that we printed it out and took it with us and I for one, was really looking forward to visiting this town. Just goes to show what is one persons treat is another persons poison. We did however get this rather lovely picture of this Water Jousting boat....a local sport.  And we were up early ready and eager to get through the bridge...didn't want to risk another ovenight stay.

The  Etang de Thau is very protected and crossing it in a hired boat is banned in winds over 4 knots. It was not a great morning with threatening clouds but we headed out anyway (there was no way we were going to get stuck in Frontignan for another night) and the crossing itself was just about perfect. There are a number of towns clinging to the edges of the lake and we opted to head for one of them for a lunchtime stop. The restrictions on the lake are due to the fact that this lake is a huge shell fish farm...the biggest in Europe I believe, certainly the biggest in France.

The lovely town of Meze

Meze turned out to be a pretty fishing village with smiling locals, good cafes and interesting shops and streets to explore. We were very tempted to stop overnight but decided that a lunchtime stop would suffice. I met a really jolly and playful lady in the indoor market selling cheese..it did seem to be a very relaxed and happy little place. Liked it a lot!.

So reluctantly we moved on to the other side of the Lake and were then rewarded when we entered the Canal Du Midi. It was a little grubby looking at first with lots of old sunken boats of various shapes and sizes but that very soon metamorphosed into  pure beauty with the elegance of

Welcome to the Midi

Canal du Midi

the trees, the rippling waters and the sun dancing around the foliage and the water in a splendid display of sparkles and shades. At times, we were really quite speechless, just enjoying the peace & beauty of it all.

To get to our overnight stop at the town of Agde, we had to pass through one of the famous Midi round Locks....and it was the biggest lock I have ever seen. I got quite

Entering the round lock at Agde

Maneuvering in the round lock

Finally exiting the Lock

excited (sad really) when I went forward to take a look at the lock and ran back along the canal side telling everyone who would listen that it was just HUGE, REALLY HUGE with all the appropriate hand gestures to demonstrate the fact. Everything went remarkably well going into and out of the lock and then we set off to find our parking space for the night. We were a little too busy while going through the lock to take any photos but we did go back later and managed to get some photos of a rather eccentric French man who we had met earlier maneavouring his 'garden boat' through the lock. It was quite entertaining. We had previously wondered how he could see where he was going with all the foliage on the boat. Watching him perform in the lock, we realised that he probably couldn't really see anything very much at all. His exit was accompanied by a resounding crash as he collided with the side of the lock.

Home for the night at Agde

We stopped on the canal side just outside of town in a lovely tree lined leafy spot. After securing everything, we got the bikes off the boat (first time) and set out for town. The old part of town was OK with its narrow streets and old buildings but it was obviously a place that was meant to have daytime tourists wandering around. It all seemed a little empty and quiet in the early evening. We went to a Trip Adviser recommended Creperie but I found very disappointing. But what was lacking in food was made up for the in the ambiance and the friendliness. I just needed a snack when we got back to the boat!

Our parking spot at Vias

The following day, a couple of hours boating got us to Vias....what a little charmer. Off came the bikes once more and we headed up hill to the little quaint town. Vias is a bustling little place with lots of locals and tourists from boats, campers (w met a couple of people at lunchtime) and bikers. The cafes in the square were all doing a great trade. We stopped for our daily coffee then happily stumbled on the local market which we both always enjoy wandering around. We bought a few things, absorbed the atmosphere, rescued a stolen item from the market stall (taken by a little boy obviously under the tutelage of his mother) and then headed back to the square for a delicious lunch of mussels.

We became very glad of having stopped for lunch as we managed to get lost on the way back to the boat and ended up taking an elongated but rather pretty detour around the countryside.

Sunset from the old bridge in Beziers

The glorious view of Bezier town

Our next stop was far far different from Vias but it turned out to be a true gem to us. Sadly in talking later to others that we met, the gems of the city were not easily or frequently discovered. Beziers is a large town and is at the bottom of a 7 gate staircase of locks so is very busy with people passing through. Once we were secure, we went for an early evening walk to see what the staircase had in store for us. It was somewhat further away than we had thought but nonetheless it was a lovely walk so it was not a problem.

We took a look at the lock then decided to head directly from there into town to find the town of Beziers and get something to eat. Bezier  is a bit like a wedding cake, built in layers. There is the bottom layer, the middle layer and the top layer with the top layer being the part that you most revere and is, in truth, the only part worth a visit. After a long walk from the lock to the town, we found ourselves in a rather downbeat area. Following the irreplacable Google map directions, we headed for the bridge to take us over the river to the part of the town that towered above us. We were fortunate to be crossing the bridge at sunset and stopped for a few minutes to take in the lovely scenery at this adorable part of the any day.....magical.

Then we still had an exhausting climb ahead of us. After what seemed forever and was probably about 10 minutes, we arrived in a area of the higher part of town that looked like it should be lively but it wasn't...it was disturbingly quiet. However, this was when another gem showed itself....we went into a small empty cafe/restaurant and was greeted by the delightful owner who served us with such warmth and charm with delicious food, it became and stayed, the best meal of the trip. A taxi back to the boat rounded off a perfect evening.

Bezier Cathedral

View from the top of the Cathedral

Our plan had been to leave in the morning, to get to through the staircase and be on our way but it was not to be. After a number of obstacles to our plans unfolded, we opted to go explore Beziers a little more and do the staircase in the afternoon. The available time for travelling through the lock staircase are limited as it takes a long time to get from one end to the other so our aim was to get to the front of the line for the afternoon climb.  So off we went back into the wedding cake town. And we got lost...again.... but eventually we found ourselves, had a few semi successful discoveries before coming across the Cathedral that formed the crown of the cake. And oh, was that worth it. What a glorious building. I walked and crawled all the way up the ancient winding staircase to get to the top of the Cathedral which was at the top of the 'cake' to be rewarded with spectacular views.

And the icing on the cake (OK, that's the last referral to cakes) was lunch. Just a stones throw from the Cathedral were a few pretty cafes. We picked the prettiest looking with the best menu with tables in the sun and were not disappointed. We had a lovely meal and then meandered happily back to the boat to head out to tackle the staircase. It was, as ever, hard work but lots of fun. And if we say so ourselves, we did a darn good job of it all. The only challenge was fighting my way through the tourists to catch and secure the lines for each lock. It's quite a tourist trap with people gathering daily to watch the process of boats going up and down.

Unscheduled stop at Poilhes

We had planned the day out but plans went happily astray when we were passing under the bridge at a little village called Poilhes and saw 4 Australians standing on the bridge. We had chatted with the group on a number of occasions and really liked them. They gave the thumbs up to the village so we promptly pulled in to join them for dinner in a remarkably sophisticated restaurant by the canal. We were also joined by three French Canadians. A great and very noisy evening was had by all.

One of the many large barges on the canal

Day 7 and we were heading out for Capestang, not a very French sounding name it is true but we stopped because it looked so pretty....and pretty it was with its winding streets, a HUGE church and very French square of cafes and cake shops. One more stop at the busy and rather commercial little town of Le Somail. It had some lovely canal side cafes and a huge bookshop selling books in lots of different languages on numerous subjects.

And then on for our last stretch on the canal to our destination to say a sad farewell to our little boat and head for our last night in a hotel in Carcassonne. If we had had the time, it would have been great to have visited more of the villages dotted along this part of the Canal but we were grateful for what we were able to see and eager to return at some stage to enjoy more.

Street of 'new' Carcassone

What a delightful and interesting town Carcassonne is...a wonderful addition and a soothing balm to ease the loss of being on the canal. The newer part of town (which is still very old) is lovely with some interesting buildings, wide open squares and cobbled streets. We walked through the lower town and headed to the old walled part of town where our hotel was situated. After booking in to the hotel, we headed back for the market that we had walked through to enjoy the hustle and bustle of buying and selling over a cup of coffee. We then sat and marvelled at the transformation of market to a square of cafes. As the market stalls were dismantled and removed, the tables, chairs and umbrellas came out to replace them. Slowly and steadily the transformation happened with seemingly seamless precision.

The walled town is all a little on the verge of looking like a set from a hotel in Las Vegas and is basically made up of shops, restaurants and cafes with a smattering of ghoulish offerings of museums of torture but it even with all of this it hasn't managed to lose all of the basic interest and charm of an ancient (though rebuilt) town. You can see the underlying charactor and charm of the place and imagine how it might have been in days gone by.

'New part of Carcassone'

Market place turns into cafe

Walled town of Carcassonne

Walled twon of Carcassonne

The main thing that I would say about Carcassonne is that we just did not have enough time to see and experience what it has to offer but we did get to enjoy the hustle and bustle of the market and the cafes in the lower part of town and spend some time in the walled town.

Summary of the week:

• Loved the canals. The mixture of the open Camargue and the leafy Midi were just perfect. 
• Our Boat was owned and run by Locaboat. The boats are a little old and well used but clean, functional and comfortable. We loved our little boat and it was very good value. 
• Take care of the 'Le Boat' boats....they are the BMW's of the waterways....fast, sleek, rather ugly in their solidness with drivers who often (but not always) did not lower their eyes enough to acknowledge the lower life of the Penichette boaters. 
• If you are used to sailing in English waters don't expect to take the charts too seriously, it can give you a headache trying to line reality up with charts if you do. 
• One week is great if you can get it but not really long enough, we were no where near ready to leave the canal. 
• Seeing wild Flamingos in the Camargue was just amazing. 
• Don't focus too much on the cleanliness of the canals, just make sure you do NOT fall in. With the plethora of boats and no holding tanks, pollution is not really an issue. It does not smell or cause any problems as long as you treat it as something to sit on, not IN. 
• The Midi has many small villages which we just didn't have the time to visit as much as we would have liked. And do go off the main track and go away from the canals....you will find some treasures. 
• People were friendly and helpful almost without exception. Happy to let me struggle with my rather pathetic French and help me out if they could speak English but only to gain clarity or offer an explanation. 

You can access the whole set of photos here.

My Introductin to Indonesia

And what an introduction!!

First of all I went to Jakarta. Why?...I hear you asking did I go to Jakarta?

 I went to Jakarta to visit a friend (my ex boss actually) from when I worked in Viet Nam. We have always kept in contact and despite being very different people (tall, elegant and polished v short, tatty and a little rough round the edges), we have always got on very well. So I wanted to see Natalie and she happens to live in Jakarta.

I can't say I fell in love with the city but I had a great time and liked a lot of what I experienced. For those not in the know, it is a HUGE city, busy with lots of people and traffic. I made Ha Noi look like a quiet village in comparison. It is a grand city with wide streets and big buildings but not what I would call attractive, It is a  place to live, not really visit.... unless you are visiting friends who happen to live in a rather comfortable part of town......which I was fortunate to be doing!

From from the ridiculous to the sublime......we took a flight to Borneo to do a tip that Natalie has already done and had loved it so much, she was eager to repeat the experience....and with good reason.

We were greeted at the airport by our guide and whisked off to join our boat. We were going to spend the remainder of our time in Borneo on a tiny boat on the river in the jungle with the express intent of seeing wild and semi wild orangutans. As always happens, having the opportunity of seeing these wonderful creatures in their own, natural environment is as different as chalk and cheese to seeing them in a zoo.....no matter how good the zoo is. In one word, it was MAGICAL.

The Orangutans were all rescued and reintroduced into the jungle. Most were the victims of logging where  they were orphaned by some accident or intervention. Many of course never make it back into their natural habitat because of the damage (physical or emotional) that they received. The ones who we saw are the lucky ones.

Day One

We arrived on the boat around midday and set off immediately. Nats and I lived on the top deck while the crew inhabited the lower deck. We were so well looked after. The food was excellent. Although sadly the Indonesian food was not suiting me so I was unable to do justice to anything more than the fruit, I really appreciated the effort that the lady went to in very cramped and challenging conditions. We stopped at the first feeding station around 2.00. It was a long weekend (Easter) so the river was very busy with people doing the same as our good selves but in the end, it really was not a problem.
We set off early to get to the station allowing ample time to take the long walk through the forest. The whole expedition took in my two greatest loves in nature.....water and dense forests.....there is something deeply satisfying in being in or by both elements.

We arrived at the feeding station early and got a good place near to the feeding station. The guys and gals started to arrive a few minutes before the bananas offering us an impressive display of acrobatics as they swung effortlessly through the trees.  The first day, we saw a large male, a couple of his ladies and their youngsters. We were all there for about 30 minutes until all the banans had gone and then all went out own ways....us on the path back to the boats and our furry cousins swinging through the trees.

A cruise down the river in the afternoon and we began to see the proboscis monkeys. In the afternoon/early

evenings, they all come to the edge of the forest near to the river so we were able to watch them doing all the things that monkeys do in the wild setting.  They are seriously ugly with their bulbous noses but they do have a certain charm that is very engaging.

We decided to 'park' the boat away from the jetty where everyone else was and tied up to some sturdy greenery on the edge of the forest. We snuggled up in bed on deck going to sleep to the gentle noises of nature.

Day Two 
After breakfast, we set off for the second feeding station. What we missed out on in numbers, were made up for in stature. Only one orangutan appeared but what a handsome fellow he was. He gave us an amazing display of flexibility, swinging on tall thin trees that seemed totally unable to hold some weight and power.

He  came down at ground level on the edge of where we were all standing. People who had been enthusiastic in getting as close as possible to him while he was high in the tree suddenly retreated on mass as he headed for ground level. But he was not in the least bit interested in us and ambled leisurely towards the feeding platform where he enjoyed a feast of bananas and milk.

Afterwards, we took a long walk back to the boat and our guide pointed out many trees and plants that the local people still use as medicine including the bark of a tree that they peel and coil and use for keeping the mosquitos at bay. The Forest is so lovely......we were in the secondary forest, the areas that have been reclaimed and reforested. The Primary forest must be truly lovely. There are a peace and silence that are difficult to explain and impossible to replicate.

And so onto our third feeding station. And what a treat we have in store!

This was now Easter Sunday and the number of boats and people have increased with additional local day So we left the boat early and took a long walk around to the station. On route, our eagle eyed guide  spotted a mother and youngster in the trees. He called to the them and they came over towards where we were. The next piece needs a little explanation.....

The guides like our guy cannot feed the animals. The only people allowed to feed them are the people who work at the feeding stations themselves. They carry food with them to help to sort out any issues that might develop where they need to draw an orangutan away from people. It happened that one of these 'keepers' was following us on the same track. He saw mum and called her over offering her peanuts. Then much to my surprise and delight, he gave me peanuts to give to both mum and babe. We spent about 15/20 minutes engaging closely with these two and had the best time of the whole trip.

Eventually they both led us to the feeding station where we joined the rest of the visitors.
trippers. They did not have any bananas left to offer so the orangutans were given milk. This offered a whole bundle of interest both for the drinkers and watchers. One of the youngsters didn't seem to have any idea of how to manage the milk unlike his friend who made the best use of a splendid jutting lower lip and a large cupped hand to make the most of the milk....he didn't miss a drop!!! (this is a picture of the messy one!!). There is an adorable video of the other one in the attachment at the end of this blog.

After dinner, we were heading down the river and arrived at the right spot at the right time as a troop of proboscis monkeys were swimming across the river.....again, there is a short video of that on the attachment.

Then in hunt of the fireflies. When we eventually tracked a group down, they were clinging onto a large tree and making it look for all the world like a decorated Christmas tree. Dinner, a short night walk and we all climbed into bed.

Day Three
All too same, we are heading back to civilization. Thankfully the boat is quite slow and there was no rush but  all the same, it was just not long enough. I wanted more, much more but am also eternally grateful for this wonderful opportunity. These are a few more favourite images but if you want more, go to the attachment where you will find over 200 (edited down from nearly 500) photos with a few short videos.

   
Hope you enjoy the photos as much as we enjoyed taking them.

Pat
https://plus.google.com/photos/103791184164606873174/albums/5866564627103384945

Back in Viet Nam

After an absence of 14 months, I am finally back in Ha Noi. I have no idea why but I love this crazy, noisy city and its stern looking residents who are so easy with a smile and a helping hand when needed. I guess it took me all of about 3 hours to feel at home once more. It is only a visit but thankfully an elongated one for a total of 2 months.

My life when I lived and worked here was busy and pretty intense. Here as a visitor I am enjoying a more relaxed way of being something between a tourist and a visiting dignitary. I had many Vietnamese friends when I was here and have been catching up with all of them. Visiting my old haunts. I was astonished and delighted to find that when I visited the area in which I lived that I was recognized by a number of the local residents.

One elderly lady and her younger daughter live in a small house in an alley that I traversed every day to and from work. I walked by thinking A) they might not be there or B) they would not remember me. Far from it, I was greeted with such warmth, dragged into their room and regaled with a barrage of unintellible Vietnamese 99.9% of which I understood nothing of and it mattered not at all. We laughed and I looked at.she is totally adorable. We have never been able to 'talk' in the conventional sense but it really does not matter. I found the same with another older lady and her family who have a shop selling flowers and a young teenager who used to give me a ride on his motorbike sometimes when it was very hot and I was carrying shopping home from the market. The teenager has grown into a charming young man in the time I have been away.

their family photos that I have seen a dozen times before and basked in the warmth. I did get that the elderly lady is now 80 and looking just great. She goes out for a walk every day down the alley and back with the help of her daughter. Otherwise, she sits on her bed greeting passers by like some sort of Queen in waiting...

I spent the first few days in a hotel but since then the only 'problem' is deciding which offer to accept to stay at my friend's houses The welcome and warmth of heart is quite overwhelming at times and totally wonderful.

My stay here is going to be all too short...the longer I am here, the more that I know that to be the case. I simply must find a way of spending as much time as possible here for as long as I can.

So if you are reading this and are tempted to come.....do so. If you want information about travel etc, I can recommend www.hghue.com, a travel agent based in Hue but covering the whole country and Indochina. I own up to be a little biased as I have written their website and help with their marketing. And if you are planning a trip to Sapa in the north, visit www.sapatourguide. info. Again, I hold my hand up to being rather biased. Panh (pronounced Ban) is a local lady from the Black H'mong tribe and is a dear friend and I developed the site to share her wonderful skills and personality with anyone visiting the area. You will totally fall in love with her....... her English is impeccable and her sense of humor is quite wicked at times.

So yes I am biased. Which is why I spend time talking to whoever will listen about the wonders of this lovely country and supporting people I meet in any way I can to better themselves. So get your ticket, pack you case and come with an open heart and a big smile......and have a great time!!!

Pat

Ha Giang VietNam

When you go to Viet Nam for a visit...and please tell me that you WILL go and visit this beautiful country, don't miss a trip to Ha Giang Province. 

One of the many breathtaking scenes in Ha Giang

Ha Giang is in the north and hosts the most northerly point in Viet Nam before Viet Nam becomes China and it has the most breathtaking scenery. 


Quite rightly, everyone makes for Sa Pa and there is good reason. I love Sa Pa. And oh, bye the way, before you go, you might want to take a look at this website that I built for my friend Panh (pronounced Ban). Panh is from the Black Hu’mong tribe and speaks perfect English as well as a number of other languages. 


Go visit www.sapatourguide.info to learn more about Sa Pa and what Panh will do to make your stay extra special. 


So, let's get back to Ha Giang Province. 


Ha Giang is less commercial than Sa Pa. In fact the tourists who go there are, in the main on the back of a motorbike. There are tours arranged from Ha Noi or, of course, if you are really adventurous, you can always go on your own. But be warned, people in this area, in the main, do not speak any English and it is definitely not aimed at the tourist trade. 


Being rather a coward when it comes to driving a two wheeled vehicle but loving the excitement of riding pillion, I did it the easy way. I took a local bus from Ha Noi (always an adventure in itself!) and booked a tour guide for 3 days to drive me around the most beautiful part of the Province. 


Nam was my guide and was just wonderful. Nam is Vietnamese but lived in America for many years so speaks perfect English and Vietnamese. He has many years of experience with bikes and drives like a pro. He also rents out bikes and offers advice and support in getting the necessary visas. (in order to go to the north of the Province, you have to get a Visa). 


He booked me a hotel, collected me from the bus and basically looked after me for the days that we were together. 


You can see more pictures of the Province here Ha Giang Province.