A Week in Barcelona, Nov.2013

Day One

Arrived at airport pretty event less flight other than a very smelly man to right and a kicker to the rear. We did however have a great crew on board. The chief steward greeted everyone with a genuine smile and often with a personal positive comment to most people who boarded the plane. And he kept up the friendly banter all the way through. Thanks easyjet, it made for a great start to the week.

Barcelona has rather a sad looking airport but it was functional which, at the end of the day is what you need. The train station was attached to the airport with a number of ticket machines that were easy enough to use. We got a packet of tickets for the week. Had about 15 minutes to to wait before heading off for the city centre. Working out our stop was easy enough. And we had some surprisingly good entertainment on the train.

Finding how to get from the stop to the apartment was not quite so simple especially when we realised that we did not have any instructions and only had a very simple, not detailed map of the city. After a few false alarms, I did the only sensible thing and asked to find that we were just round the corner from our destination! A few more false alarms and, hey presto, we arrived. Well, we arrived at the building, we then had to decipher the rather complicated instructions for finding the keys for the apartment. Our final hurdle of the night was to open the door of the apartment with the strangest ‘key’ I have ever seen. But Frank prevailed and we sighed a sigh of relief on gaining access to our home for the next week And it was OK...large, comfortable, bland but a pretty good short term rental apartment complete with all amenities. On our travels en route, we noticed with relief that just next door there was a restaurant and just across the road there was a small local (OPEN) shop where we could pick up some basics for the morning. So dinner, shopping and bed in the hope of seeing some sun in the morning.

Day Two

After a reasonable nights sleep, we woke up to an overcast sky. Breakfast’ed, we set off for ‘La Rambla’..... the street where you have to be in Barcelona …..apparently! As we found out during the week, it certainly is the core of the hub of the old area of the city. Anyway, we soon realise that this apartment that we thought was well placed is even better than we thought. Which is just as well as the weather is not so great. Cool and wet! 

Undeterred, off to find 'La Rambla' and en route passed some impressive buildings. Not as lively as suggested in the tour guide probably something to do with the weather. I guess the street entertainers are less enthusiastic to perform on the off chance of maybe getting a few euros in the pouring rain. We cut off the main boulevard into the interesting looking narrow streets of the old city. After a wet wander we decided it was time for a drink and a nibble. Made a great choice in a cafe. Friendly smile don't seem to come with the service here but it certainly does not help that we have virtually no Spanish to share. While this is not an obstacle to ordering as every one speaks perfect English, it does not encourage any warmth. Suitably refreshed we set off again on our journeying.

The old streets with the occasional square are great fodder for viewing and

we eventually arrived at a large open area with the Cathedral flanking one side. We had to wait a few minutes for the worshippers to leave (it being Sunday afternoon) but then were allowed to pay our six euros each to enter (apparently in the morning and after 5.00 its free!). Wow what a depressing and foreboding place….. all  heaviness and morbidity. The cloisters were lighter and easier on the senses but I have to say I was glad to leave the cathedral itself and take a breathe of fresh (if wet) air. Another wander through the

narrow streets of the old town and another refreshment and drying off stop (thankfully this time with smiles accompanying the service) and we started planning the evening. Sometime during the day we had picked up a brochure for a classical Spanish guitar recital. We decided to get tickets and go along. So tickets safely tucked away we headed home to dry off and rest before dinner and entertainment. We also made a rough plan for the rest of the week, weather depending.

Well dinner was not such a great success. We did not leave enough time for deliberations for choosing the optimal place to eat and ran out of time ending up with a piece of pizza and sandwich which was just about adequate. But who cares.... we went to a magnificent recital. I am sure the guitar player had at least three miniature guitar players tucked under the table behind him. I swear it's impossible to create those sounds from one instrument. I was fascinated by his left hand. It reminded me of ‘Thing’ in the TV program and films of the Adams Family back in the 70's. ( it was a disembodied hand that had its own identity moving independently through life). I was totally transfixed and for me that is quite something as music is just NOT my thing. Of course it was still raining when we came out of the crypt (forgot to mention that the performance was in the crypt of a church). Frank wanted  something to eat and eventually got a waffle with chocolate and  walnuts. Back home and to bed!

Day 3 loomed......you guessed it.......cool and WET! Not going to be put off with a little rain, we set off as planned to join a guided walk around the weird and wonderful world and creations of Barcelona's own, the architect, Gaudi. We had a delightful lively guide called Kathryn who was totally unfazed by the rain despite the rather heavy downpour at times. It was a testament to her enthusiasm that we all stayed with her except for 2 people who had no raincoats at all and even they came back when the rain eased off. 

We saw the outside of three houses and got the history of this fascinating man before heading out to his last and still unfinished monument….the Sagrada Familia. Love or hate it, his work definitely makes a statement. As we later discovered, he was only one of many architects of his time in the city who worked in the Art Deco style but it was his obsession with the very best of raw materials and ways of working that made his so different. If it looked like solid marble, it was, if it looked like an unusual wood that came from the other side of the world, it was because it was. At the start of the tour, Kathrine posed the question of whether he was a genius or a madman. My feeling at the end of the tour and increasingly as I saw his work that he was probably both with one side feeding the other.

We arrived home rather sodden and cold but soon warmed up and got comfortable. We decided in our wisdom to visit that night, a Tapas bar that was recommended in trip adviser. That in itself was very wise, the fact that it was it was in the north of the city nearly 2 kilometres away and not around the corner became a challenge when we set off in the pouring rain. Well to cut a long and very wet story short, we finally arrived and had a great time. In all truth, very mediocre food but a great welcome, wonderful atmosphere and great wine!

Day 4

NO RAIN! What a relief! We were more than ready for a break. We set off to meet up with Kathryn

once more to do the walk in the Old Quarter of the city. Only a small group today which was perfect. We really enjoyed this walk even more that the previous day. Weather definitely helped but it was also more varied and offered more about the history of the city. At the end we headed off for lunch and found a cafe with a table and chairs in the SUN…….ahhh…..wonderful. I had a great lunch, Frank not so good but we did enjoy the space enormously. Had a walk down to the sea then up from the bottom of La Rambla back to where we had started the morning with Kathryn to book some tickets at Tarantos for 8.30 performance of the Flamenco dancing for the following night. I had found this place on the Internet but then when I asked for a recommendation from K, she said that there were only 2 places worth going to in the city, a jazz club somewhere and Los Tarantos!

Day 5

Still no rain but now much colder. Today was the day we had assigned to the tourist bus with a number of stops en route. We spent the day on the open top floor of the bus for as long as we could stand the cold then scuttle downstairs to warm up or get off, visit something and have a hot drink. Our first stop was to visit the Sagrada Familia. What a story...150 years in the building and still lots to go but what an amazing monument. Quite unlike any church you have ever seen, the inside is full of light and space...which is just as well as it was increasingly full of tourists. We arrived about

9.45, got straight in and enjoyed the first 20 minutes or so in relative quiet but as the morning progressed, it got busier and busier. It is a must for anyone visiting Barcelona whatever your religious conviction. I really like the fact that although it is consecrated by the christian church and is undeniably christian in identity, it has a wider heart embracing more of the spirit of spirituality rather than the doctrines of the church.

Our next stop was at the Gaudi Park. This was an unexpected delight. Again. very busy but the open spaces made it feel less crowded. Another unfinished project, it has been re created as a total experience. We were lucky enough to be able to bask in a little sun during our visit. Our lunchtime decision was not so great and we ended up with eating a bowl of potatoes and having a glass of wine...the rest was really quite inedible. So back to the bus and onto the change over point of the day from red bus to blue bus. We scuttled off to warm up in a nearby Starbucks before boarding the blue

bus. By now it was early evening and dark and we debated whether to bother with the last part of the day but went ahead and I was glad that we did. We saw Barcelona at night from the lower level and then from the Montjuic hillside and finally down by the waterfront. It was beyond cold but we stuck it out for most of the trip. We ended the trip near the cathedral and went for the customary hot drink in order to orientate ourselves for getting to the Flamenco show. The cafe/restaurant looked good and we decided to aim to return post show to eat.

The Flamenco was pretty raw and very exciting. It is true that the performers have probably seen better days but they were entertaining and we had a great time. The venue is small and intimate and just perfect for Flamenco. After the show we headed back for the restaurant we had found earlier and had a good meal.

Day 6

What a treat this morning. I had decided that I wanted to go and see the Palau De La Musica Catalana….what a special place. As soon as I walked in, I got the atmosphere as well as the intrinsic

beauty of the design of the building. We started out with a touching video about the theatre and people who have performed there. We then set out for the tour with the best and most informative guide I have had anywhere for a long time. His passion for the place shone through. He gave us the history, talked about the architect and about the original purpose for the building….for choirs to perform. And then we went into the auditorium to find that the quartet due to play that evening were practising. So we got the full tour PLUS getting to enjoy it with the backdrop of this superb young group. WHAT A TREAT!!

I came out in something of a daze as we headed off for lunch which for me was great but for Frank a bit of a disaster. He managed to miss out on the verbal and visual cue that the local speciality Pork dish was, indeed, trotters!

The afternoon, we headed for the Guell Palace just off La Rambla. It’s impressive and mind boggling in so many ways with the details of design, the multiple patterns of wood and ironwork and everything looking like it would be more at home in a building about ten times the size (at least). Pretty it is not! But well worth the visit as Gaudi’s first large project.

The second trip to Los Tarantos proved to even better than the first. The group were definitely more polished and the dancer was great..and we got better seats as we got there earlier.

In search of somewhere to eat we stumbled on a lively place down a small lane successful because of some very enthusiastic and inviting guys on the nearest corner. We caught the end of yet another Flamenco show and enjoyed a good meal in an entertaining place.

Day 7 and the last day

Our flight was due to take off at 5.00 so we planned the day with precision to make the most of the day and not lose sight of the time crunch. After dropping of our cases, we headed for the Roman

Ruins at the Museu D’Historia De Barcelona very near to the Cathedral. It was a bit of a gamble with neither of us really that interested in Roman ruins but it was a real treat and am so glad not to have missed it. You travel down into the basement and wander along the well defined ‘streets’ able to clearly see the fish sauce factory, the laundry, dye shop and wine making hall as well as sections of houses and the wine. It was wonderfully organised and the auditory commentary was great.

We then headed off to find a vegetarian restaurant that Frank had found. It sort of topped the day off really. Great value and delicious food with friendly and helpful staff. Collect case, off to the airport arriving eventually home around 9.00pm after a rather wet, cold and very exciting week in Barcelona.

General Feelings/Impressions

This is a complex and intriguing city with so much to do it is a challenge to choose.

It can be expensive but it does not need to be. The city museums are excellent and very reasonably priced. Same with cafes and restaurants. Go off the main streets and you will find that the prices will drop significantly.

Lots of choices for place to eat but it all seems very similar. Tapas are good for some occasions but they do get a little boring. I missed my vegetables!!

Great wine, reasonable prices.

Did find some friendly people but on the whole found locals a bit dour and not too friendly. But I am putting that down to my lack of language and have promised myself to have at least the basics before I go again.  

These pictures are a brief look at the places we saw, if you want to see more, CLICK HERE.

Some useful information:

• For walking tours go to www. runnerbeantours.com/Barcelona. They are free, donate what you think the leader of the tour deserves.
• Los Tarantos in the Place Reial (just off La Rambla)
• We used the Turustic Bus which is not the best of tours that I have ever taken but it does take you to the important places, just don't rely on the commentary to provide any useful information. 
• For restaurants, hunt around the back streets...its there you will find the gems. 
• For short stay apartments, try Loving Apartments, Carrer de la Diputacio 291, Barcelona or email barcelona@loving apartments.com
• DO NOT MISS going to the Sagrada Famila but go early in the day and definitely DO NOT MISS the Palau de la Musica. 
• We only went to one of the Barcelona city owned museums but it was very impressed. They are cheap (8 euros) and the one we went to had an exceptional layout and an audio guide which is, for me, second to none as it is the only guide that I have ever finished. I usually get bored after the first 5 minutes. 
• Do your homework. There is SO much to see and do in this city, it is easy to get overwhelmed. 
• Unless you are a real fan of Gaudi, don't focus too much time on his work as there is so much more to see and they can be quite expensive.